Looking for the perfect Cincinnati steakhouse in which to woo your next client? Of course, The Precinct comes to mind almost immediately, but before you dismiss this old stalwart as being too played, think again.

The discerning steak lover doesn’t care about culinary fusion, portion sizes that require a magnifying glass, or some modern interpretation of the classic American steak dinner. Jeff Ruby’s flagship restaurant remains his best for one simple reason: Here, you get a massive amount of skillfully prepared beef, without the fanfare.

Apart from a few new booths, chairs and carpeting, not much has changed at The Precinct in recent years. Its reputation for stellar service remains as untarnished as ever. Sure, as Cincinnati sports stars fall in and out of the limelight, the names of the entrées are periodically replaced. (In fact, you know you’ve made it as a sports star in this town when Mr. Ruby names one of his crown jewels after you.) Invariably, what you can expect is the same top-quality steaks that have been served here since the restaurant opened in 1981.

Nothing will impress your dining guests like The Precinct’s filet. On a recent visit, my three companions and I each ordered the filet in various incarnations. By far, the dish on our table with the most eye candy was the Brandon Phillips steak. Engulfing the entire plate, this center cut filet mignon is a colossal 16 ounces, the restaurant’s largest offering.

Dusted with a dry rub and then quickly broiled at an extremely high temperature to caramelize the outside and lock in juices, this steak is a tenderloin that stacks up against any you’d find at Morton’s, Peter Luger’s, David Burke’s, or, for that matter, any other Ruby restaurant. Pristine flavor unscathed by sauce, and meat so tender the knife cuts like butter, is what the true steak enthusiast seeks like the Holy Grail.